Tuesday, November 8, 2011

"Mini Jeogori" and "topless jeogori" 「ミニ・チョゴリ」と「トップレス・チョゴリ」 part1/2

about pottery will be subject to next, at this time topics hanbok "Chima jeogori". Chima is a skirt, and Jeogori is a jacket. there is the corner to try to take a picture free wearing Korean clothes at the Incheon International Airport, Tomotubby also tried the other day. In Japan, plays "Jewel in the palace" on TV, many people would be fascinated to those colorful hanbok "Chimachogori" . Jang Geum (Dae Jang Geum) served the  11th King Jungjong as the woman doctor, she was a real person marked her name in history books, "Annals of King Jungjong" in "Annals of Joseon Dynasty" .

TV show has many sloppy investigations in doubt, setting the early 16th century era ended the reign (Jungjong reigned 1506-1544), it was time the system of Joseon dynasty became to be frayed. newer or older cliques got the power struggle and faction-fighting in the court every day, pirates wako on the coast had subsided at once, has been activated again  Wako means japanese pirates but (indeed, many pirates were not Japanese,  Fake japanese, the fact was they were Chinese or korean) and damaged.

After this, at the 16th century, the unfortunate curse of history, is said to be the root of all evil, "conquer Korea" of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, and the troubles in and out for Joseon dynasty was going increasingly deepened.
In the process, reflecting the economic situation or stage of Joseon dynasty, going to change significantly the shape of Chimachogori.
What was relaxed body and the length was long, it had saved the dress fabric, wide chest, sleeves, narrows the width of the sleeve, Jeogori was to be smaller and shortly, Chima went to be tightly skirt. Also the part of the skirt wrapped around the waist, it was initially hidden under the jeogori, exposed to the epidemic.

Jeogori shortened rapidly thereafter. In the late Chosun it was most surprisingly, shorter on the chest until the tails. Both breasts were so obviously in plain view, wrapped with long cloth to hide the breasts.
like a bra which can show the people. over sexy!!

焼き物の話題はまたの機会にして、今回は韓服「チマチョゴリ」の話題。チマが下衣(スカート)でチョゴリが上衣です。仁川国際空港で韓服を試着して写真を撮ってもらえるコーナー(無料)がありまして、先日 Tomotubby も挑戦しました。日本では「宮廷女官チャングムの誓い」が放映されるなどして、あの色鮮やかな韓服「チマチョゴリ」に魅せられた人も多いことでしょう。チャングム(長今)は11代王中宗に仕えた女医で、歴史書「朝鮮王朝実録」中の「中宗実録」にその名が記された実在した人物です。テレビドラマの方は首を傾げたくなるいい加減な時代考証も多いですが、時代設定は16世紀前半治世期(在位1506~1544)、ちょうど李朝の体制が綻び始めた時期です。宮廷内は新旧の派閥が権力争いに明け暮れる毎日、沿岸では一時沈静化していた倭寇(実際、日本人じゃない似非倭寇も多いです)の被害が再び活発化してきた時代でした。この後、16世紀末には、不運な歴史の元凶、諸悪の根源のように言われる、豊臣秀吉の「朝鮮征伐」があり、李朝期の「内憂外患」はますます深まっていくのでした。その過程で、李朝期の経済事情を反映したのか、チマチョゴリの形も大きく変化していくのです。丈が長く身頃もゆったりだったものが、服の生地が節約されて、胸幅、袖、袖の幅が狭くなり、チョゴリは短く小さく、チマはタイトになっていきます。チマを腰に巻きつける部分も、最初はチョゴリの下に隠されていたのですが、露出するのが流行するようになります。


from the leftside, Chimachogori in 15th century, the 17th century, 18th century, 19~early 20th centuries. Becoming to be more and more sexy (Photo from Chosun Ilbo)


"Mini Jeogori" and "topless jeogori"
checking the history of Korean traditional costume Chimachogori surprisedly, the length was more and more shorter at late Chosun era, exposed to wider until can see the breastplate as underwear. So-called "mini jeogori". You might feel it is too sexy inappropriate for Joseon's religion, Confucianism, which was for failed (Kisen) sex must have been limited women in the world of redlines. ↓for example to determine the beauties have unique hair models are the failure..



"Mini Jeogori" by unknown author, Lee人文, Shin Yun-bok's 신 윤복 beauties
however checking the genre painting at the time, "mini Chokoli" was widespread in Joseon korea. for the example, such as painting as the follows.
as looking the colorful Chima chogori, seemed that painted noble class,ryanban( bureaucratic). 中人 (chungin)class of craftworker, 常人 (sangmin) normal farmer and 賎民 (chunmin)knave class people typically wore jogori colored only white.

両班 (yangban) - 中人 (chungin) - 常民 (sangmin) - 賎民 (chunmin〔for example, 奴婢 (nobi), 巫堂 (mudang) or 白丁 (baekjeong)〕)



김준근(金俊根) "Banquet bride"

김준근(金俊根) "seat swing on the afternoon"

as just described checking the images of jogiri and be surprised, there was existed more exposed than "mini chogori"  ,the  breastplate under of shorter chogori jacket was removed visible to expose the bare chest. So-called "topless Jogori,Chogori" horrendous.




western artists drew Ukiyoe "topless Jeogori"
in  "the distribution area of exposure costumes in  Korea" ,beautiful paints by two western printmakers, Paul Jacoulet,Elizabeth Keith.


at first,according to Paul Jacoulet (1896-1960), there was an exhibitions at Yokohama Museum of Art Japan in 2003. This year also, watching the above poster , an exhibition was held in Korea. he was a French, who came to Japan with the family at the age of 3, and living life and based in Japan. he visited Korea, China, and Polynesia, and painted  portraits glossily with pastel colors and delicate lines. Many pieces of the model were teenager boy, homosexual tendencies can be grasped.

the Problems of "topless Chogori", The two works are depicted simple ladies, both have not any element of his particular glossily at all,  exclusively attended the strange customs in the people.

まずポール・ジャクレー(1896-1960)ですが、日本では 2003年に横浜美術館で展覧会が行われています。また今年は、上のポスターのように、韓国でも展覧会が開催されていました。この人はフランス人なのですが、3歳のときに家族と来日して以来、生涯を日本で暮らし、日本を拠点に活動した人です。朝鮮、中国、ポリネシアなどを訪れ、人物画を繊細な線と淡いパステルカラーで艶っぽく描いています。美少年がモデルの作品が多く、同性愛の傾向が見て取れます。


"the Letter from Son "(1938) also Mother wears " topless "
「息子の手紙」(1938) お母さんも「トップレス」

"Washer Woman" (1955) washing was important work for women at the time.
also Taro Okamoto took pictures of washer women.
「洗濯女」(1955) 当時の女性の重要な仕事は洗濯でした。岡本太郎も洗濯する女性たちを撮影していました

one Another painter, Elizabeth Keith (1887-1956), she is a British women,who was staying in Japan for nine years to visit her sister in Japan at 1915. Meanwhile, she travelled in China, Korea and the Philippines, made here place-themed works  where she visited. Tomotubby favors her Chinese landscape painting.

もうひとりの絵師、エリザベス・キース(1887-1956)ですが、イギリス人女性で、1915年に日本にいた妹を訪れて来日し9年間日本に滞在しています。この間に中国、韓国、フィリピンなどを旅行して、訪問地を題材にした作品を残しています。Tomotubby は中国の風景画がお気に入りです。

"Wonsan 원산시" 1919 it is obscure, watch a woman on the under.
「元山」(1919) わかりにくいけど下の方を注目

"Talking at the morning" (1921) also they are washerwomen were "Mini Chogoli". something like hidden face carefully but exposing the breaths.
「朝のおしゃべり」(1921) これも洗濯女。「ミニ・チョゴリ」です。なんか顔を隠して胸を隠さずって感じ

Country wedding (1921) mixed "Mini" and "topless jeogori"

According to the reports in China, "topless jeogori" had been banned after the annexation of Korea in 1911 under Japanese colonial rule, because of the disorderly. if the walking woman naked breasts were found in the street, they would be received slap by cop.
however judging from the time of birth and the creation of works of two painters, they visited Korea since 1911, even after the Japanese colonial period the genre of "topless jeogori" was still alive.

田舎の結婚披露宴(1921) 「ミニ」と「トップレス」混成


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