Thursday, September 22, 2011

shorter Hanbok and korean women's right. チョゴリの裾の短さと朝鮮女性の権利の関係

Hanbok jacket, one third of the length during the 300 years
In the 19th century even shorter as the breasts can not be hiden.
Kisaeng's dress was popular in the aristocratic women's fashion.

by journalist : Ho Yunhi

Hanbok 한복 (Korean traditional costume) ,wearing women in 16ce, Jeogori 저고리 (jacket) was long enough to hide till the waist length, and relaxed. the jacket when wearing in her wedding was wore till to be older, and used as burial outfit. Then, the length of Jeogor would be shorter gradually, raised up the line extremely when beginning 19th century, finally still no longer not able to be hidden the breaths.

studying the book "Our beautiful Jeogori" which is published by hanbok desingner(54) who is study korean traditional clothing,able to know the transition of in successive periods. Ms.Kim held the exhibition that  "the history  Jeogori for 600 years" in  2003, and restored around the 70 Jeogori which excavated into the ruins, this book summarizes the results of the exhibition to organize.
Northern-based clothing made for riding
The oldest document can be confirmed that the figure is wearing Jogori is  murals pictures in Goguryeo. In particular,  "ladies mural picture" in Suranri tomb which is painted women wore straight collar combined with the previous formula, narrow sleeves, depicted as wearing a long coat to hide their hip. 
Kim says that "their garments is specific of northern Scythian ethnic style to make easily to ride  horses. prototype of Koreans Jogori (ethnic Chosun) .
in Unified Silla Dynasty, they wore  called "the short robe" which the range was shorter length and the wide of sleeves. In addition, Jogori become have Korumu(knotting) in Goryeo age.
shorter length further
when the epidemic began to change rapidly, it was the beginning of the Joseon Dynasty. In the 16th century, Jogori had approximately 65 cm length, it was long enough to completely cover the line of waist. but it was 55 inches in the 17th ce, up to 45 cm shorter in 18th ce, it was shorter even about 28 cm in  the 19th century.
extremely it was appeared to be 14.5 cm length, unable to even cover the chest and side. Thus women were used band separately to hide the chest. looking nice breaths for shorter and tightly Jogori, they also deliberately suppressed the growth of their breasts.
Jogori became shorter later in Joseon Dynasty.Ms.Kim explains that " through in Imjin war 1592 ; Bunroku Keicho no eki or the 1627 invasion and  Second Manchu invasion of Korea ; Qing invasion of 1636-37 병자호란, the trend would be simplified the indication, abrupt changes occurred in the form of Jogori. 

to be shorten dramatically and became to show their breasts and hips at later, it is the indication to express their exposure beauty and opened sexy.

the Fashion Leader would be from nobility women to prostitutes.
its very interested in the trends that the noble high class women (aristocratic; ryanban) introduced the fashion of belong to lowest caste women ;Kisaeng.
the style which wearing shorter Jogori,wrapped long band on the chest to hidden the breaths was originally a fashion of Kisaeng, but quickly spread to women of nobility.

in previous term of Joseon Dynasty, the fashion trend was led by the royal families or Ryanban women, but turned into the leader becomes Kisaeng later.  Ms.Kim explained that "to imitate the kisaeng fashion was in vogue at late Joseon Dynasty, that was a big topic in society. Yi dokumu ;a practical science studiest in the age of King Jeongjo, wrote in his book 청장관 전서 with despair over that "every men let their wife or lovers take on the coquet poses of Kiseong,and the epidemic was born ".

Lady's Hanbok went through series of changes.

13~14th century
15~16th century

17~18th century

19th century

very beautiful korean women.
but in Joseon dynasty period (July 1392 ~ October 1897) ,they didn't have rich color by Chinese controlled.

(mochi thinking)
japanese high school girls are favor with their shorter skirts. i think its for themselves to look up pretty. they arrange the school uniform and enjoy their fashion, not for men to coquet.
they wear the black inner pants and guard their virgin solidly, then not care to watch for someone.
i think the length of skirt is indication of freedom of women in society.
but korean shorter traditional Jogori is shown women's suppressed right under the korean Confucianism advantaged for men.


【許允僖(ホ・ユンヒ)記者】 16世紀の女性が身に着けていた韓服(韓国の伝統衣装)のチョゴリ(上衣)は、腰が隠れるほど丈が長く、ゆったりしていた。嫁入りの際に着ていたものを年老いるまで着続け、寿衣(死者に着せる衣服)としても使った。その後、チョゴリの丈は徐々に短くなり、19世紀に入ると極端にラインが上がり、胸を隠すことすらできなくなった。





流行が急激に変わり始めたのは、朝鮮王朝時代に入ってから。16世紀には丈が約65センチあり、腰のラインを完全に覆うほど長かったチョゴリが、 17世紀には約55センチに、18世紀には45センチにまで短くなり、19世紀にはさらに短くなって28センチ前後となった。極端なものだと丈が14.5 センチというチョゴリまで登場し、胸や脇を覆うことすらできなくなった。このため女性たちは、胸を隠すための帯を別に使用した。短くぴったりとしたチョゴリに似合う胸にするため、胸の発育をわざと抑えることもあった。




조선 여인 저고리 길이 300년간 2/3나 짧아져

입력 : 2011.06.28 03:19
시대별 저고리 유행 살펴보니…
19세기엔 '한뼘 저고리'까지 등장 가슴 가릴 수조차 없을 정도… 기녀 옷차림 양반家까지 퍼져

16세기 여성들의 저고리는 허리를 덮을 정도로 길고 품도 넉넉했다. 시집올 때 입은 옷을 늙어서도 입고, 수의(壽衣)로도 입었다. 그 후 저고리 길이는 조금씩 짧아지다가 19세기에 이르러 극도로 짧아져 저고리로 가슴을 가릴 수조차 없었다.

전통 복식 연구가이자 한복 디자이너인 김혜순(54)씨가 출간한 '아름다운 우리 저고리(김영사)'를 보면 시대별 저고리의 변화 흐름이 한눈에 보인다. 지난 2003년 '저고리 600년 변천사' 전시를 통해 유적지에서 출토된 저고리 70여점을 복원·재현했던 김씨가 전시 성과를 정리해 담은 책이다.

◆기마 활동에 편하도록 만든 북방계 복식

저고리를 입은 모습이 확인되는 가장 오래된 자료는 고구려 벽화. 특히 수산리 고분 벽화 '시녀도'에는 앞으로 여며 입는 '전개교임' 방식에 곧은 깃, 좁은 소매, 엉덩이를 덮을 정도로 긴 윗옷을 입은 여인이 보인다. 김씨는 "기마 활동에 편리하도록 만들어진 북방계적 특성의 스키타이계 복식"이라며 "우리 민족 저고리의 원형"이라고 했다. 통일신라시대에는 단의(短衣)라 하여 저고리 길이가 다소 짧아지고 소매 폭이 넓어지며, 고려에 와서 저고리의 고름이 처음 생겼다.

이미지를 클릭하시면 스냅샷으로 크게 볼 수 있습니다. / 조선닷컴
◆길이는 갈수록 짧아져

유행이 급물살을 타기 시작하는 것은 조선시대에 들면서. 16세기에는 65㎝ 전후로 허리 선을 충분히 가릴 정도의 길이였던 저고리가 17세기에는 55㎝ 전후, 18세기에는 45㎝ 전후로 짧아지다가, 19세기에 급격히 짧아져 28㎝ 전후가 된다. 심지어 14.5㎝ 길이의 저고리까지 나와 가슴, 겨드랑이 살을 가릴 수 없었고 부인들은 가리개용 허리띠를 사용해야 했다. 짧고 밀착된 저고리에 어울리는 작은 가슴을 만들기 위해 '졸잇말(가슴 발육을 억제하기 위해 베로 만든 졸이개)'까지 등장했다.

조선 후기로 갈수록 여자 저고리만 단소화·극소화된 것이다. 김씨는 "임진왜란·병자호란을 거치면서 간소화 경향이 나타나며 저고리 형태의 급격한 변화가 나타났다"면서 "후기로 가면서 급격히 짧아지고 가슴과 허리를 드러낸 것은 저고리를 통해 개방적이고 에로틱한 노출의 미를 드러내고자 했다는 뜻"이라고 했다.

◆패션 리더, 양반 부녀자에서 기녀로

이런 변화는 당시 천민 계급에 속하는 기녀들의 '패션 트렌드'를 상류층인 양반 부녀자들까지 흡수한 것이라 흥미롭다. 짧은 저고리에 가슴을 가리기 위해 긴 허리띠를 댄 복식은 원래 기녀의 것이었으나 곧 양반가 여인들에게도 전파됐다.

조선 전기만 해도 왕실과 양반 부녀자들이 트렌드를 주도했으나, 후기로 가면서 패션 리더가 양반 부녀자에서 기녀로 바뀐다는 것이다. 김씨는 "조선 후기에 기녀 복식을 모방하는 경향이 사회적으로도 큰 논란거리였다"며 "정조 때 실학자인 이덕무가 저서 '청장관전서(靑莊館全書)'에서 '기녀가 아양 떠는 자태를 세속의 남자들이 자기 처첩에게 본받게 함으로써 생겨난 것'이라고 한탄했을 정도였다"고 했다.

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